Bowden extruder upgrade

Bowden extruder upgrade DEFAULT

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder

Spring,Bowden,/iridesce657454.html,decodr.in,Metal,UniTak3D,Feeder,$8,Upgrade,Industrial Scientific , Additive Manufacturing Products , 3D Printer Parts Accessories,Extruder,Adjustable $8 UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder Industrial Scientific Additive Manufacturing Products 3D Printer Parts Accessories UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Feeder Adjustable Upgrade OFFicial shop Spring Spring,Bowden,/iridesce657454.html,decodr.in,Metal,UniTak3D,Feeder,$8,Upgrade,Industrial Scientific , Additive Manufacturing Products , 3D Printer Parts Accessories,Extruder,Adjustable $8 UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder Industrial Scientific Additive Manufacturing Products 3D Printer Parts Accessories UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Feeder Adjustable Upgrade OFFicial shop Spring

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Feeder Limited time trial price Adjustable Upgrade OFFicial shop Spring

$8

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder

  • Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
  • 【Application】:The all metal bowden extruder is compatible with Ender 3 V2,Ender 3 Pro,Ender 3,Ender 5 and CR10 series 3D printer.
  • 【Spring Adjustable Design】: The extrusion spring tension could be adjusted by tighten the screw,which greatly improves the printing quality and accuracy.
  • 【Bowden Tube】 :The Bowden Tube is developed specifically for 1.75mm filament with an extremely precise internal diameter. 2mm±0.05mm inner diameter reduces the "wiggle room" or buckling.
  • 【Recommend Filaments】: The new upgrade metal aluminium alloy extruder works great with PLA/ABS/Wood/Hips/Flexible/PTEG. 40 teeth drive gear feeds the 1.75mm filament very smoothy.
  • 【Bed-leveling Springs】:Length:20mm/0.78" Outside Diameter(OD) : 8mm/0.31". Rod Diameter (ID) : 4.4mm/0.18".
|||

Product Description

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder

Sours: https://decodr.in/iridesce657454.html

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Ranking TOP10 Extruder Spring Upgrade Adjustable Feeder $8 UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder Industrial Scientific Additive Manufacturing Products 3D Printer Parts Accessories UniTak3D Metal Bowden Ranking TOP10 Extruder Spring Upgrade Adjustable Feeder Feeder,$8,Industrial Scientific , Additive Manufacturing Products , 3D Printer Parts Accessories,Adjustable,UniTak3D,Upgrade,Extruder,Metal,Spring,/ecblastesis657454.html,www.5asec.cl,Bowden Feeder,$8,Industrial Scientific , Additive Manufacturing Products , 3D Printer Parts Accessories,Adjustable,UniTak3D,Upgrade,Extruder,Metal,Spring,/ecblastesis657454.html,www.5asec.cl,Bowden $8 UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder Industrial Scientific Additive Manufacturing Products 3D Printer Parts Accessories

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Ranking Sales for sale TOP10 Extruder Spring Upgrade Adjustable Feeder

$8

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder

  • Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
  • 【Application】:The all metal bowden extruder is compatible with Ender 3 V2,Ender 3 Pro,Ender 3,Ender 5 and CR10 series 3D printer.
  • 【Spring Adjustable Design】: The extrusion spring tension could be adjusted by tighten the screw,which greatly improves the printing quality and accuracy.
  • 【Bowden Tube】 :The Bowden Tube is developed specifically for 1.75mm filament with an extremely precise internal diameter. 2mm±0.05mm inner diameter reduces the "wiggle room" or buckling.
  • 【Recommend Filaments】: The new upgrade metal aluminium alloy extruder works great with PLA/ABS/Wood/Hips/Flexible/PTEG. 40 teeth drive gear feeds the 1.75mm filament very smoothy.
  • 【Bed-leveling Springs】:Length:20mm/0.78" Outside Diameter(OD) : 8mm/0.31". Rod Diameter (ID) : 4.4mm/0.18".
|||

Product Description

UniTak3D Metal Bowden Extruder Upgrade Spring Adjustable Feeder

Sours: https://www.5asec.cl/ecblastesis657454.html
  1. Patriot pointe apartments reviews
  2. Mindustry mods
  3. Rutgers vs lehigh wrestling

After buying yet another Creality 3D Printer last month, it was a disappointing to find that the latest Ender 3 V2 extruder is still made of cheap plastic. These have an average life expectancy of 2-3 months, where the lever arm breaks, or filament just grinds through the plastic. As such, I decided to revisit the best extruder upgrades for the Creality Ender 3 in 2021.

The aftermarket industry has exploded in the last few years, and there are plenty of great choices available. Whether we’re doing a complete Ender 3 extruder Direct Drive conversion, or just looking for something more reliable than stock, there are a lot of possibilities.

To pick the best option for our needs, there are a few points we should consider first. Do we want single drive or dual drive? Will we keep it bowden or switch to direct drive? Can the new extruder handle the filaments we use? Understanding the differences and knowing what’s available will help to make the right decision.

Single Gear vs Dual Drive Extruder

When it comes to extruders, there are two types, Single Gear and Dual Drive (not to be mistaken for Direct Drive). Both serve the same purpose and function more or less the same, but the difference is how the filament is pushed into the hotend.

Single Gear

Creality single drive gear extruder

On a Single Gear extruder, a toothed gear is mounted on the motor shaft. A free spinning idler wheel presses against the gear, which places tension on the filament and helps it feed through. Single gear is the most common.

Dual Drive

Bondtech BMG dual drive gear extruder

A Dual Drive extruder replaces the idler wheel with a second “hobbed” drive gear, gripping the filament from both sides for greater control. This reduces slippage and missed steps while increasing precision and accuracy.

For most, a well made single drive extruder is more than sufficient. Dual drive is superior, and a core feature of the “next generation” extrusion systems, but aren’t necessarily a must have for everyone. These are however a must for printing flexible filaments like TPU and NinjaFlex.

Bowden vs Direct Drive Extruder

Most Creality 3D Printers use a Bowden system. However, with a renewed community interest in Direct Drive, we’re seeing a resurgence in demand for such systems. Conversion kits are available from Micro Swiss, Printer Mods, etc. Creality even took notice and switched their latest CR10 V3 to a Direct Drive extruder.

Bowden Extruder

Creality CR10 V2 Bowden Extruder

Bowden extruders are mounted remotely on the 3D Printer’s frame, pushing filament to the hotend through a “bowden” tube. This significantly reduces excess weight on the hotend, allowing for faster and more accurate prints.

Direct Drive Extruder

Creality CR10 V3 Direct Drive Extruder

Direct drive extruders sit directly above the hotend, feeding filament straight down into the melting chamber. It eliminates print defects like blobs and zits common with bowden extruders, at the expense of slower speeds and vastly increased weight.

More often than not, aftermarket extruders work as both bowden and direct drive configurations. Manufacturers tend to favor one over the other, but usually offer extra adapters and brackets to make it cross compatible.

Bondtech has pioneered the dual drive extruder market for years, and the BMG extruder is the pinnacle of their success. It’s a compact, lightweight and high performance design that’s built with one purpose in mind, pushing filament.

At it’s core, we find two hardened steel drive gears. These might not look like much at first glance, but they are precision CNC machined to the highest standards. Every tooth and every groove has been carefully crafted to achieve maximum pushing force with no filament degradation. Pinching the filament from both sides for a uniform grip, they handle everything you can throw at it, from soft flexible filaments to abrasive materials.

Bondtech even published an article recently, comparing China’s attempt to clone their gears versus the genuine version. In a nutshell, the significant difference in tooth definition and profile results in grinding filament and unreliable performance long term.

Read: Comparing an Original Bondtech Mini Geared BMG with a Clone

Bondtech BMG Hardened Tool Steel Gear quality comparison
Bondtech BMG Hardened Tool Steel Gear side by side comparison

But enough about the gears, there is a lot more to love about the Bondtech BMG Extruder. It has a thumbscrew tensioner to adjust the gear pressure on filament. It also features a quick release lever for quick material swaps. Best of all, it has near universal fitment, compatible with bowden and direct drive configurations on practically any 3D Printer.

There is an integrated groove mount that fits the E3D V6 hotend. They also maintain an entire STL library of official designs with mounting brackets, filament guides and more. If you prefer the look of their SLS printed Nylon parts, they even make a variety of kits with these included.

Pros

  • Lightweight assembly (75g)
  • Hardened steel dual drive gears
  • 3:1 gearing ratio for precision control
  • Thumbscrew tensioner for fine tuning
  • Quick release lever for quick material swaps
  • Universal fitment with printable brackets

Cons

  • Pricing – most expensive package
  • Bowden adapter sold separately

If you’re not ready to shell out $80+ for an extruder just yet, genuine Bondtech Drive Gears can be purchased standalone. These should be compatible with generic dual drive extruders and even clones. Innovation is expensive, support the company that spearheaded this project.

The Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder is created for Creality 3D Printers. No printed mounting brackets or retrofitting parts, this is a plug-n-play solution that’s ready to go.

As we’ve come to expect, the CNC machining quality from Micro Swiss is exceptional as usual. It features a lightweight, aluminum dual drive chain, hardened tool steel gears and an integrated backing plate. A spring tensioned lever makes filament loading a breeze, and the short, constrained filament path is great for flexible filaments.

It’s worth a mention, this isn’t a standard Direct Drive configuration, at least not in the traditional sense. Using a piece of Capricorn bowden tubing between the extruder and hotend would place it into the “hybrid” category, but this is just semantics. Performance wise, there is very little to differentiate the print results.

Pros

  • Hardened steel dual drive gears
  • Lightweight aluminum assembly
  • Adjustable filament grip
  • Compatible with the stock Creality and Micro Swiss all metal hotend

Cons

  • Not a geared extruder
  • Reduces print volume (Z axis)

For Ender 3 and CR10 owners ready to make the switch, the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder is a no brainer. It’s precision CNC machined by a US based company, offers high performance dual drive extrusion and designed with Creality 3D Printers in mind. Ender 5 owners should note that due to slight variations in the backing plate, this version is required.

In contrast to other solutions, the E3D Hemera (formerly known as Hermes) is a complete hotend-extruder bundle. It comes with a genuine E3D V6 hotend and proprietary stepper motor included, making for one compact, all inclusive package.

Taking inspiration from the Bondtech BMG, the Hemera extruder is also a dual geared extruder. However, it’s small integrated design results in a significantly shorter filament path between the gears and nozzle.

This reduced distance means less retraction, less binding and less friction. In fact, it features an entirely all metal drivetrain, CNC machined from hardened stainless steel (same as the gears). Combined with IGUS bushings and shielded ball bearings, it’s a completely dry setup that is self cleaning and easy to maintain.

As with most E3D products, it’s not a drop-in replacement for Creality 3D Printers, but that isn’t necessarily a problem. There are dozens of printable mounting brackets published on Thingiverse, making it compatible with a range of different 3D Printers.

Pros

  • Hardened steel dual drive gears
  • Short filament path for flexible filament
  • Backwards compatible with E3D V6 and Volcano
  • Pricing is much more competitive than Bondtech BMG

While the price tag may look a bit steep at first glance, keep in mind that their flagship V6 hotend starts out at $60 retail. Taking this and the motor cost into account, the extruder itself is actually quite affordable, set somewhere around the $40 mark. After we factor in the sheer amount of research and development (explained here), the E3D Hemera extruder looks like a steal at the current price point.

SeeMeCNC makes high end Delta 3D Printers, and the EZR Extruder was built with these in mind. Despite that, it just so happens to be a bolt-on solution for many other 3D Printers as well, the Creality Ender 3 included. In fact, it mounts right on the stock extruder bracket, no customization or retrofitting required.

The EZR Extruder is also an excellent choice for any filament, and handles flexible materials such as TPU and Ninja Flex like a champ. Bowden tubing runs nearly the full length of the channel, bottoming out right at the drive gear and idler pulley. This creates a well constrained, low friction filament path that prevents soft filament from binding up.

It’s mostly intended for Bowden systems, and fits the stock CR10 and Ender 3 extruder bracket like a glove. However, the EZR Extruder can also be used for a direct drive conversion as well. Teaching Tech did a wonderful video covering this process in great detail.

Pros

  • Flexible filament friendly
  • Extremely easy to load and remove filament
  • Open source design

Cons

  • Single drive gear
  • Not officially supported by SeeMeCNC

The E3D Titan Extruder is a long time favorite, but with better options on the market, its also starting to show its age. The lightweight design has always been the biggest selling point, capable of using an ultra slim Pancake Stepper Motor to drive filament, thanks to a balanced 3:1 gearing ratio.

Molded from Delrin, a durable engineering plastic, the entire unit weighs in at just over 2 ounces. When paired with a small 13N-cm stepper motor, the the total package comes out to around 8.5 oz (1.5x less than it’s successor, the E3D Hemera).

However, with a rising interest in Direct Drive Extruder conversions, reduced mass on the X axis is always a worthwhile consideration. Additional weight above the hotend will translate into vibrations as it continually changes speed and direction, and this ultimately increases ringing (a.k.a ghosting) in our prints.

Pros

  • Lightweight
  • Durable plastic frame
  • Compatible with 1.75 and 3mm filament

Cons

  • Pricing
  • Single drive gear
  • Bowden adapter sold separately

The E3D Titan may not be state of the art anymore, but it’s well built and fills a niche. Unfortunately, with retail prices starting at $63, cost is the real obstacle here. Despite a decline in demand, the price hasn’t decreased since it was released in 2016. This has driven many customers to purchase Chinese clones, often available at a fraction of the price.

This unbranded Dual Drive Extruder is a replica from the Creality CR10S Pro. It’s a pretty solid option on a tight budget and a step up from the single geared aluminum extruders.

The CR10S Pro version does use genuine Bondtech gears, so don’t expect to find comparable performance here, those gears alone are twice as expensive as this entire extruder. However, despite lower machining quality and sometimes questionable tolerances, dual drive at $15 certainly has it’s perks.

Pros

  • Inexpensive
  • Dual drive gear extruder
  • Durable aluminum construction
  • Direct replacement (no modification required)

Cons

  • Poor quality control
  • No bushing between gear and the lever
  • Modification required for best performance

The biggest advantage for Creality owners, besides price, is the ease of use. While most aftermarket products require printed mounting brackets, this dual drive extruder is a drop-in replacement.

The Creality Aluminum Extruder is a no frills, drop-in replacement for the Ender 3, Ender 5 and CR10 3D Printers. It’s metal construction is far superior to the injection molded plastic that come stock, but that’s about it.

These kits make a lot of claims regarding performance enhancements, but that’s just marketing fluff. It comes with the same weak compression spring and cheap brass gear found on the stock extruder, neither of which are anything special. This particular extruder is best paired with a 40T Stainless Steel Drive Gear that will firmly grip the filament and a Yellow Die Spring that will keep significant tension applied.

Pros

  • Extremely cheap
  • Aluminum parts are much more durable
  • Direct replacement (no modification required)
  • Anodized in 5 different colors

Cons

  • No performance improvements
  • Intake hole can cause filament wear
  • Single geared extruder

Starting out around $5 on Amazon, these aren’t a bad choice for makers on a budget. They can be further upgraded with a few small parts, and are very simple to install. Considering the ridiculously low cost and wide availability, these should really be what comes stock.

Sours: https://letsprint3d.net/best-extruder-upgrades-creality-ender-3/
Improve Ender 3 print quality: OMG DM1 dual gear lightweight direct drive extruder upgrade

Hardened Aluminum Alloy Bowden Extruder Upgrade for CR-10 and En

Hardened Raleigh Mall Aluminum Alloy Bowden Extruder and Upgrade CR-10 En for Hardened Raleigh Mall Aluminum Alloy Bowden Extruder and Upgrade CR-10 En for Extruder,Alloy,and,Upgrade,Hardened,/anyway770399.html,bios.sinergis.org,for,CR-10,En,Industrial Scientific , Additive Manufacturing Products , 3D Printer Parts Accessories,Bowden,$7,Aluminum $7 Hardened Aluminum Alloy Bowden Extruder Upgrade for CR-10 and En Industrial Scientific Additive Manufacturing Products 3D Printer Parts Accessories Extruder,Alloy,and,Upgrade,Hardened,/anyway770399.html,bios.sinergis.org,for,CR-10,En,Industrial Scientific , Additive Manufacturing Products , 3D Printer Parts Accessories,Bowden,$7,Aluminum $7 Hardened Aluminum Alloy Bowden Extruder Upgrade for CR-10 and En Industrial Scientific Additive Manufacturing Products 3D Printer Parts Accessories

Hardened Raleigh Mall Aluminum Alloy Bowden Extruder price and Upgrade CR-10 En for

$7

Hardened Aluminum Alloy Bowden Extruder Upgrade for CR-10 and En

  • Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
  • Compatible with CR-10 and Ender3
  • Easy installation
  • Hard metal prevents bending
  • Strong grip on filament
|||

Hardened Aluminum Alloy Bowden Extruder Upgrade for CR-10 and En

SKIP TO CONTENT

Keeping up with your annual screenings can save your life. Do it for your loved ones, schedule today.

Screenings

Vision and Values statements do three things: say why we exist (Mission), express what we aspire to do and be (Vision) and show how we will shape our behavior (Values).

Partners

At INTEGRIS Health, partnering with people to lead healthier lives is at the heart of everything we do.

On Your Health Blog

The INTEGRIS Health blog is packed with professional advice and trustworthy, Oklahoma-centric health news from INTEGRIS Health doctors and experts to help you live your healthiest life.

Read More

INTEGRIS and Me

INTEGRIS and Me is a new way to think about the way you manage your health care, and it all starts with an online suite of powerful, customizable tools available to you now.

Read More

About INTEGRIS Health

Caring for our patients is our top priority. As the largest health care system in Oklahoma, we feel it's our responsibility to provide you with resources and services to improve the health of the citizens of our great state.

Classes & Events

Love, Live and Learn. INTEGRIS Health offers a wide variety of classes and community events aimed at promoting health and wellness in Oklahoma and beyond.

For more information on the INTEGRIS Baptist Medical Center Portland Avenue (previously Deaconess) Data Incident, click here.

Sours: http://bios.sinergis.org/anyway770399.html

Extruder upgrade bowden

Advantages and Disadvantages of Direct and Bowden Extrusion

One of the most important parts of a 3D printer is the extruder. This pushes filament to the hot end to be melted and extruded. There are three key parts that all extruders share: a stepper motor, a driver gear, and an idler. While the components of extruders are all the same, there are two different types of extruders: Direct and Bowden.

Direct Extrusion Diagram
From: Future Electronics

Direct Extrusion

The difference between Direct and Bowden extruders is the location of the extruder in relation to the hot end. Direct extruders, as the name implies, are directly attached to the hot end and are a part of the print head.

Since Direct extruders are located above the hot end with little space between them, a Direct extruder keeps the distance that filament must travel from the extruder to the hot end to a minimum. This leads to the main advantages of this style of extrusion.

Better Extrusion and Retraction

Since there is less distance for the filament to travel, extruding and retracting the filament becomes much easier. Essentially, the filament is more responsive to the extruder. This means that there is less stringing and oozing that occurs because of worse retraction and leads to a higher quality print.

Smaller Motors

In addition, the closeness of the extruder to the hot end means that less torque is required from the stepper motor than in a Bowden extruder. Because of this, the stepping motor does not need to be as large or as powerful as in a Bowden setup. However, a large motor can provide more power with a Direct extruder, which can be beneficial.

Wider Range of Filaments

Direct extruders are also able to effectively print a wider range of filaments, most notably, flexible and abrasive filaments. While flexible filaments can work with Bowden extruders, Direct extruders can print them more effectively. This is because a Direct extrusion system is more constrained.

Disadvantages

However, the location of the Direct extruder also leads to its main disadvantages. The weight of the extruder on the print head can lead to several problems. Since the print head is constantly moving, additional weight to move around could lead to backlash, banding, overshoot, or frame wobble. Additionally, the size of the extruder can be disadvantageous for some 3D printers, as it makes up a majority of the print head.

Bowden Extrusion Diagram
From: start3dprinting.com

Bowden Extrusion

The opposite of Direct extruders, Bowden extruders are not attached to the hot end or print head. Instead, the extruder is removed from the print head and is most often attached to the printer body. The filament is then fed to the hot end using a Bowden tube.

Lighter, Faster, and More Accurate

Like the Direct extruder, many of the advantages and disadvantages come from the location of the extruder in relation to the print head. The largest advantage is the reduced weight of the print head. Since the extruder is removed from the print head, there is less weight on the print carriage.

Also, because the print head is lighter, a printer using a Bowden extruder can print faster, more accurately, and more precisely. This can result in either higher quality prints or quicker prints, as the print head can move at higher speeds. Additionally, Bowden extruders are more compact and take up less space than Direct extruders.

Disadvantages

While Bowden extruders can increase print speed and reduce the print head weight, there are several disadvantages that make them less appealing than Direct extruders. For one, they cannot use as many filaments as effectively as Direct extruders. While they can print flexible filaments, these filaments tend to bind in the Bowden tubing. Additionally, Bowden extruders cannot use abrasive filaments because these filaments will wear away the inside of the Bowden tubing.

Bowden extruders also need a greater retraction distance and a more powerful motor than a Direct extruder. This is because of the increased friction on the filament in the Bowden tube, which can lead to a less responsive extrusion system, more stringing and oozing on the print, and more resistance and drag with the filament.

There are some companies that are trying to solve some of these issues. One example is Capricorn, which makes a Bowden tube that is supposedly better at printing flexibles and puts less friction on the filament.

Diagram of Bowden (left) and Direct (right) extruders.
From: 3Dprinting.com

Which One Should You Choose?

There are several factors to consider before choosing between a Direct and Bowden extruder. With a Direct extruder, it is important to have a stable printer frame to ensure that the print head can handle the extra weight. With a Bowden extruder, a completely constrained extruder system is important to ensure the filament travels where it should without binding.

It is also important to consider which type of printer you have. A Delta printer needs to have a light print head and must use a Bowden extruder. A Cartesian printer could use either but should have a good frame when used with a Direct extruder. Also, a printer with multiple extruders works best with a Bowden extrusion system.

Finally, the use of flexible or abrasive filaments and the need for quicker printing speeds should also be considered. If you plan on using flexible filaments or abrasive filaments, then a Direct extruder would work best. If you want speed and are using a more standard filament, then a Bowden extruder will work just as well.

Get updates, deals, and 3D printing tips by joining our community of over 6,000!

[sexy_author_bio]

Sours: https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/advantages-disadvantages-direct-bowden-extrusion/
Why direct drive is not automatically better than bowden tube

Introduction: 3D Printer Extruder/Hot End Upgrade

Another Instructable dedicated to the upgrades on my Velleman K8200 3D printer! Although my base model is a K8200 these upgrades can very easily be adapted to most RepRap printers. The first upgrade I published was adding a heat enclosure with some other great features. You will notice the enclosure in the pictures of this Instructable so if interested here is a link to that Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-3D-Printer-En...

So far positive feedback has been amazing so I'm back at it with another great upgrade, this time focusing on the print components by upgrading both the Extruder and Hot End.

This upgrade will feature a Bowden Extruder and a E3D V6 Hot End, and will include an in depth tutorial on assembling, printing brackets, installing and wiring. As usual, this is not meant to be a step by step guild to be followed to the tee, rather an overview of my experience, as well as tips, tricks and design ideas I came across in the process of these upgrades. Im all about collaborating to create an even better final product, so if you have and input, be it positive or critical, don't hesitate to chime in!

Here is a link to the original Velleman K8200 Kit: https://www.vellemanstore.com/en/velleman-k8200-3d-printer-kit

On to the build!

Step 1: Overview of Original K8200 Parts

Lets me start by giving a background as to why I felt the need to implement extruder/hot end upgrades. My K8200 worked well for me as a close to stock machine for some time, it wasn't until I began to used the printer far more often for rapid prototyping that noticed issues that might improve efficiency if corrected. Here are some issues I encountered along with some proposed solutions:

- Excessive filament jam

One of the biggest issues was the amount of time I spent on maintenance of the K8200 extruder/hot end. The path of filament from extruder to nozzle was somewhat dynamic which lead to frequent jams. This hot end/extruder combo especially had trouble retracting filament and getting it removed completely without a jam.

Possible fix: An extruder/Hot end combo that has a ver direct path from start to finish. In addition having components lined internally with PTFE tubing would allow the filament to extrude and retract much more smoothly.

- Inefficient filament jam correction

With the K8200's enclosed extruder/hot end combo unjamming the printed head was a task the included disassembling quite a bit of the print head/extruder.

Possible fix: Explore options of a move open and accessible extruder and hot end combo.

- Exposed filament from filament spool

Another problem was that with the K8200's original design the filament leaving the spool is exposed to moisture and dust when idling. This resulted in breaks in the filament during non use that would result in more maintenance.

Possible fix: An extruder with an input for PTFE tubing to protect filament from spool to extruder.

- 3mm filament became brittle and caused breaks during no use

Along with the filament becoming brittle from being exposed, I figured the 3mm filament might be more susceptible to breaks that the 1.75mm filament.

Possible fix: An extruder/hot end combo that allows 1.75mm filament to be used.

- Slow hot end temp gains

Lastly my original hot end seemed like the heat process could have been more efficient. I believe the problem came from lack of current through the high gauge wires of the original K8200 ribbon cables.

Possible fix: A hot end with high quality heat source along with revision to the original wiring.

Step 2: Upgrade Parts List

After coming up with a list of design aspects that needed revision, I spent some time exploring options for hot ends and extruders online. After seeing what was out there I settled on these parts:

E3D V6 Hot End by 3D Cam

- I went with this hot end for a few reasons:

  1. This hot end allows a PTFE tube to insert almost all the way from top to nozzle which results in smooth, low friction extrusion and retraction.
  2. Included fan to disperse excess heat
  3. Heavy gauge wiring included with hot end
  4. Widely available nozzles in a variety of sizes (it came with 0.4 but I purchased 0.2-0.6 on amazon)
  5. Overall price is extremely affordable

E3D V6 by 3D Cam on Amazon $19.99

Bowden Extruder

- There was also a verity of reasons I chose the Bowden Extruder

  1. Open design in attempt to easily fix jams
  2. Ability to visualize filament slippage in the gear
  3. Easy adjustability
  4. Compatibility with PTFE tubing
  5. Compatibility with original NEMA 17 Stepper Motor
  6. Again overall price is extremely affordable

Bowden Extruder on Amazon $25.97

Step 3: Printed Bracket Design

The design process was built around an attempt to make the the Bowden Extruder and E3D V6 work together as synergistically as possible, as well as be easily removable and or displaced for other CNC attachments that might be included in the future. Other attributes of high importance included rigidity and consistent mountability, to avoid having to make print bed and leveling screw adjustments on a constant basis. I have seen plenty of examples of Bowden Extruders being used where the extruder is relatively far from the hot end, it seemed to me that the most efficient design would be to use the extruder to draw filament from the spool and directly send it into the hot end, rather than push the filament through a long tube of TPFE. That being the case my bracket has mounting holes for the bowden extruder as well as a mount for the neck of the E3D V6 Hot End.

- Overview of design -

The design includes:

  • Mounting holes for Bowden Extruder on top portion of bracket
  • Mounting spot for neck of E3D V6 hot end with gradual thickness increase for tight fit
  • Dual fan mount holes on either side for what ever works best ergonomically for your setup
  • Multiple extra supports to increase rigidity, thus consistency in prints
  • Mounting holes to connect to original square nuts from K8200 with the original bolts
  • Designed to fit perfectly with the extruded aluminum cross beam of the K8200

This design can easily be adapted for other RepRap printers. I can include the original file made with 123D Design so modifications can be made.

Click here: Thingiverse Download

Step 4: Assembling the Bowden Extruder

The Bowden extruder doesn't come with any instructions when purchased on amazon, however the seller has provided a small series of pictures that reprints the assembly on the amazon page. Because these instructions were difficult to find and even difficult to understand i will provide a quick rundown or the Bowden Extruder assembly.

- BEFORE THE BUILD -

Make sure you receive all the necessary pieces. I had to add a nut to what came in the shipment for the adjustment spring.

The amazon Bowden Extruder that I have link to does not include the necessary NEMA 17 stepper motor but the original K8200 extruder stepper does fit and work perfectly fine. You need to either remove it from the original extruder or purchase a new one separately.

- THE BUILD -

  1. *IMPORTANT SIDE NOTE TO SAVE YOU TIME* This step is the assembly of the Bowden Extruder as a tool for all who purchase it, regardless of the possibility some might be following pretty closely to the other steps and using the printed bracket. If you are using the printed bracket you will need to mount the black metal bracket to the printed bracket before assembling the extruder. The stepper motor gets in the way of the mounting bolts if assembled prior. Back to your regularly scheduled extruder assembly.
  2. First attach the Extruder Driver Feeder Gear to the NEMA 17 motor shaft, leaving about 2-3mm of shaft sticking out passed the gear.
  3. Add the second black metal piece to the bracket as shown in the pictures included and use the small bolts included to secure the motor to the bracket pieces in 3 of the 4 holes. The upper right hole will be used to hold the adjustable spring loaded portion.
  4. Attach the wheel to the red aluminum without over tightening it to prevent to much friction for the wheel.
  5. Using another bolt with a washer attach the red aluminum tension adjuster to the main frame so the wheel is contacting the feeder gear.
  6. Insert both larger bolts into the two holes that will become the tension adjustment.
  7. Add the nut to the bottom bolt and add the spring between the two.
  8. Lastly attach the two PTFE sockets to the top and bottom of the Bowden Extruder.

Step 5: Connecting the Extruder to the Printed Bracket

Like stated in the previous step the Bowden Extruder needs to be secured to the printed bracket before the motor and other components are attached. The NEMA 17 Stepper motor covers the area were the Bowden attaches to the printed bracket. Bolt the metal Bowden bracket to the printed bracket and fasten with nuts. You will notice the metal bracket will sit slightly off center of the printed bracket, this is because when assembled the PTFE fittings ar not centered on the extruder, to line up well with the E3D V6 Hot End the extruder is slightly off center.

Step 6: Connecting E3D V6 Hot End to the Printed Bracket

Next step is to attach the E3D V6 Hot End to the printed bracket, which now includes the Bowden Extruder. Again, a very simple and self explanatory step. The printer mount includes a ramp in the area to attach the neck of the hot end.

Before sliding the hot end into place on the bracket, a length of PTFE tubing needs to be cut to connect the extruder to the hot end. Be sure to account for the depth that the tubing slides into the hot end, which is close to 3/4 of the length of the entire hot end. The fittings on the hot end and extruder allow the tubing to slide in but not out so slide the tube in part way and insert the hot end into position on the printed bracket. Refer to the pictures for further clarification.

Step 7: Mounting to the Printer and Wiring

This step is also very simple, the intension of the design of the mount was to allow removing the hot end/extruder to be easy and quick. Originally I created a mount that held only the hot end and the extruder was mounted separately to the aluminum extrusion. This would make moving these components far more difficult because as I said before the majority of the extruder needs to be taken apart to get to the mounting bolts.

The printed bracket is mounted to the z axis spanning extruded aluminum with the original hardware that the K8200's printhead was mount with. I included the large washers in between the bracket and beam to once again increase the rigidity.

After mounting basically all we are left with is the wiring of the new components. The original wiring did the trick well enough for the original parts, but I figured, instead of just wiring the upgrades into the original ribbon cables I would rewire the printer. Main benefits of this would be to use heavier gauge wire to allow more current to flow so temperature gains while prepping would be much quicker. Also going along with the design of having the print head easily removable I wanted to wire in connectors in close proximity to the printing hardware. As you can see in the pictures the extruder stepper motor and thermosistor still use the original ribbon cables, but the heat element is wired directly to the RAMPS board with the thermal protected wire that comes with the E3D V6.

The heat dispersion fan that is on the E3D V6 need to constantly be on when the hot end is on. My first idea was to splice into the heat element power, in an attempt to have the fan on anytime the heat is on. This will not work because once the extruder reaches its desired temperature the power that is supplied to it drops dramatically and won't power the fan, therefor the fan would only be in operation as the hot end is heating up. I decided to wire the fan directly to the power supply, which in my enclosure, is wired to a master ON/OFF switch. The fan runs as long as the printer is powered which works fine for me.

Step 8: Finishing Touches and Review

Last small addition is to add the main cooling fan back to the printer. I decided to upgrade the original 40mm fan on the K8200 to a 60mm fan. The air flow is far greater and it is much quite than the original. The fan mounts to either side of the printed bracket with the same metal bracket that was mounted to the K8200 frame.

Obviously there are software changes that need to be made to accommodate the new hardware. I use the recommended software for the K8200 which is Repetier Host. The main change that needs to be made is to slow down the extruder stepper motor, in the original layout the extruder had a large gear to gear down the speed of extrusion. Now the rotational speed of the stepper is directly proportional to the extrusion speed. This can be slowed by lowering the "Extrusion Multiplier" in slic3r. I lowered mine as low as 0.20. Also the retraction length and speed need to be lowered considerably to compensate for the lack of gear reduction. Other settings like filament diameter and nozzle diameter also need to be adjusted accordingly.

And thats it!!

That about wraps up this upgrade process. Here I will review the results and value of the upgrades:

Noticeable changes since implementing upgrades

- Faster quality print speed

- More precise print quality

- Quicker print prep time

- Not a single jam since the upgrade

- Ease of filament change (no more retraction problems)

- Ease of nozzle changes to increase precision or print speed

- Overall less failed prints

Other Pros of Upgrade

- Very low cost parts

- All hardware is reused from original K8200

- I've noticed that there seems to be a wider variety of 1.75mm filament, so this upgrade introduces new filament options.

I truly hope this Instructable provides guidance or inspiration for future makers. Further upgrades are in planning at the moment. Next up will be adding a rotary attachment to be able to engrave PCB's. Also if interested in the enclosure that can be seen in the pictures, check out my previous Instructable here:

https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-3D-Printer-Enc...

Thanks Again and until next time,

Never Stop Creating!

2 People Made This Project!

Did you make this project? Share it with us!

Recommendations

  • 3D Printed Student Design Challenge

    3D Printed Student Design Challenge
  • Audio Challenge

    Audio Challenge
  • Reclaimed Materials Contest

    Reclaimed Materials Contest
Sours: https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printer-ExtruderHot-End-Upgrade/

Similar news:

.



374 375 376 377 378