Bridgestone 100 bicycle

Bridgestone 100 bicycle DEFAULT

Original Owner: 1971 Bridgestone 100 TMX

050416 Barn Finds - 1971 Bridgestone Motorcycle 100TMX - 1

The incredibly original bike seen here has had the same owner since 1971 when they bought it brand new! This 1971 Bridgestone 100 TMX is in Waverly, West Virginia and it’s listed on eBay with a current bid price of $1,500. It’s fairly rare for an owner to hold onto something for 45 years and then let it go. This 99% original bike has just 996 miles on it and it even has the original tires! This could be a museum piece.

050416 Barn Finds - 1971 Bridgestone Motorcycle 100TMX - 2

In 1945, The Bridgestone Bicycle Manufacturing Company was founded and by 1949 the company name became Bridgestone Cycle Company. A year later they started offering a Bridgestone bicycle with a small slip-on engine sold separately. In 1952, the first true Bridgestone motorized cycle was sold with the name BS-21 Bambi. Insert your own eighth-grade humor here..  BS is an unfortunate abbreviation for Bridgestone, but there isn’t much we can do about it now. The Bambi had a 26cc engine that fit over the rear wheel, such as on this 49cc BS-41.

050416 Barn Finds - 1971 Bridgestone Motorcycle 100TMX - 3

About the time that this bike was made, Bridgestone Tire Company was feeling the pinch by competing motorcycle companies who weren’t fond of buying Bridgestone tires from a competitor when there were other choices available. Between that and US regulations against two-stroke bikes, Bridgestone must have figured that it was time they got out of the motorcycle business.

This particular 100 TMX is pretty incredible, a person rarely sees low-mileage original motorcycles like this anymore, especially ones that are this old. It has been in storage for years and it’ll need some work to help it stay running. It starts, but doesn’t want to keep running. I imagine that pretty much any Barn Finds fan could figure out what’s wrong with it. These little trail bikes had twin sprockets in the rear for hi-low, on-road/off-road gearing and they came with a standard rack on the rear and a tubular steel frame, as opposed to a pressed-steel frame.

050416 Barn Finds - 1971 Bridgestone Motorcycle 100TMX - 4

The paint looks a little faded on the top of the gas tank and there’s a chip on there, too; but for it to be all original and still be in this fine condition after all of these decades is pretty amazing. It even has the original tools, but the pouch supposedly disintegrated years ago. This 10.5 hp two-stroke single has oil injection and rotary valves. It’s a shame that this motorcycle has been stored so much of its life, but I’ve done the same thing myself so I can’t say too much about it. Would you ride this Bridgestone or would you keep it in storage as a museum piece?

Sours: https://barnfinds.com/1971-bridgestone-100-tmx/
Way on back before I was obsessed with mopeds, my brother found a small pressed-frame motorcycle in an antique shop in Tomah wisconsin. I think it was the ungodly sum of 200 or 300 bucks, which we had saved up from mowing lawns at the time, but our parents forbade us from buying it. Instead of getting the damn thing, getting mad, and getting bored with 2 wheel vehicles, we became obsessed with it and I'm writing you today. We spent months looking up everything we could on it, the internet was pretty small back then so there wasn't much, but we found out that Bridgestone, the tire company, made motorcycles for awhile. Seemed kinda funny at the time, like they were probably a 'also-ran' sort of thing, with no parts availability and crummy quality.

Through my next few years of owning, fixing and generally being around all kinds of vintage 2 stroke machinery I came across a few other Bridgestones. They didn't impress me much, but the few I saw looked like they were comparable to any yamaha of the time, and pretty simple with none of the whingdings common to, say, hondas. Nice simple bikes.

I was talking to a guy about a 175 GT, high pipes and the works, pretty cool bike... but it was pretty beat down and he wouldn't go below $300,  I was at about $100 because of all the parts needed, and the whole 2 cylinder thing kinda scared me with syncing carbs, and twice as many ignition/carb parts to buy.

Finally a few months ago a post went up on Craigslist with a 100 G/P in boxes. It was one of the tube frame- road race style ones, probably one of the best bikes they ever made, and the guy said the motor was good, just needed some reassembly. I probably shouldn't have even gone to look at it, but I did and when I saw the bare tube frame sitting there, I fell in love. I knew it was a bad idea, but that frame was just so beautiful, very much like a 60's rickman race frame. Plus, it was dirt simple and everything appeared to be there.

I started doing some digging on the internet and found that not only was Bridgestone a premium motorcycle at the time, they produced some of the 60's fastest 50cc twins, borrowed some of europe's best technology at the time and produced a hand crafted bike much better than the yammies and suzukis in their class. They were considerably more expensive and boasted more power with rotary valves, chrome/aluminum cylinders, aggressive porting, and very well made chassis.

It ended up turning into a huge project as these things always do, plus I ended up with the TMX off road version, which is in much better shape and totally complete. Here is a quick rundown on how that all happened.


This is roughly the condition she came home in. This picture was taken after a few hours of sorting out parts, cleaning some things up, putting things back together the right way. The forks were a godawful mess, the springs were jammed between the triple trees and all the little hardware that places the springs and some of the neck bearing hardware was jammed in and around the springs in a most illogical manner.

By this point I've re-assembled the fork tube parts into the right order, and found enough used moped wheel bearings to stuff the neck full of loose bearings and grease. Somehow the rubbers on this bike are all in pretty good shape, including the fork boots, which is cool because the fork seals are intact and there is very little rust on the sliding part of the forks.

First I bored out the handle bar clamps from the weird diameter they were, some tiny proprietary junk, to a standard 7/8" diameter handle bar. The controls were pretty messed up and would probably cost more to get the few missing parts than completely replace, and the old bars were a little bent anyhow.

Apparently, the poor girl was found a few years ago in a barn in northern WI. Two or 3 consecutive owners attempted shoddy 'restorations' but luckily they were too lazy or incompetent to mess things up very badly. A long time ago tank and tins were painted in a ghastly blue metallic paint, someone took the time to partially clean these up, but then someone else painted all the silver tins (fork ears, headlights, etc) with flat black, and very poorly.

The frame has been spraypainted black, but there is a lot of dirt underneath, and you can tell things like the rear wheel were never removed.

Its too bad, because thats the kind of work I really hate doing, but oh well. After figuring out loosely what was missing I put together a box of crap to sandblast and return to the OG silver paint.I made an executive decision early on to get this running and riding in imperfect shape, to have fun with it and not nit-pick fit and finish.


The headlight was busted so that had to get welded back together.

Welding rust to dirt, not the best


Oh well, nobody will see it.


Good enough for a driver.


One of the studs on the fork tube was torn out, so i machined a new one and TIG welded it in place.

 Painted the fork lowers with the same silver paint.


Some random little crap had to get made for the motor, this pin is part of the clutch throwout mechanisim. It was missing from long ago


After a couple months of plugging away at this, a buddy said he had another Bridgestone 100. I stopped by his shop and I had to have it. Its the matching TMX and in much nicer shape than the G/P.

Carlos is a friend of mine and an excellent motorcycle mechanic. He got the bike running and rode it around a bit, when he went to do the performance mods to the rotary valve, he found that the kickstarter engagement cog on the clutch was smoked. Apparently this is a very common problem on these bikes so he wanted out of the project. Another Bridgestone in a box, I'm obviously not right in the head.

I took the motors in to the machine shop to use air tools to remove the nut holding the clutches on. First I disassembled the gold bike engine, woof. This thing was beat pretty hard. Right away I noticed the piston and jug which were pretty well shot as advertised. Someone put a hi-flow filter on this thing, and the rubber joint in the exhaust was completely shot. It was probably running lean as hell until someone seized the ever loving crap out of it.

Carlos told me about that, and did a pretty good job of cleaning up the cylinder, but it is still scored all to hell. The GP bike has a bad cylinder too, for a slightly different reason. The chrome is chipping off in a little spot next to the exhaust port.

Took the clutch apart, this thing has been hammered. Someone wore out the pads really bad, then they welded in a shim to hobble it along, then they cut 2 new pads with what looks like a jig saw.


 And finally here is the offending cog part, sticking up there. You can see here how it is supposed to look.
 HA, the chunks were just sitting there. These cogs go from the kickstarter mechanisim to spin the clutch housing . They are machined in the cast iron gear with no fillets on the bottom, and i'm sure they took a lot of abuse with kids jumping on kickstarters and general beating around that these bikes take.

 I knew the ones in the Gold bike motor were shot, so I took the blue bike motor apart and figured I'd swap the whole clutch out of the blue bike. I could tell the pads and such were all in much better shape. Disassembled the second motor and guess what! Yep the cogs were smashed out of that one too.. Damn!

 Two lonely Bridgestone motors, both with bad top ends and bad clutches! Depressing!

The master tool and die maker that owns the shop I work at said 'why not just machine a bushing and fix it' I had originally thought i might try to save the second motor by doing that, but now I had no choice. We talked a bit about how to make it, and he offered to let me use some cold rolled steel that should be crazy tough compared to cast iron.

Started by turning the slug down to fit.

 Then machined off the old cog to get a square surface.

 Which I indicated and bored out to 1_1/16 to fit the bushing


Bushing fit on the shaft with .0015 tolerance


Bushing press fit into gear

Bushing cogs machined out- this time with a slightly radiused 5/16 end mill to give it more strength
Both gears fixed
Shaft was a little chewed up from chunks of metal rolling around in there
Cleaned up the shaft and re-installed the clutch drum
Gears meshing-  a perfect fit.
The engine fully reassembled.
So in order to get this running for the frozen snot ride, and general romping about, I took the clean cylinder with chrome chipping off from the blue bike engine and put it on the clean (running) crankcase and transmission from the gold engine. The good clutch from the blue engine went in here too.

Here is the engine set in place, I'm finding out at this point that a lot of oddball hardware is missing. Luckily, in the process of putting the GP together, I've amassed a pretty good stash of fasteners. I've really been meaning to get out to a place with bulk metric fasteners and stock up a huge stash for this sort of thing, instead I rang up another $20 tab at Phule's True Value down the street... d'oh!

A little farther along. The tank had to come off to get at the coil. This required removing the balancing tube which had been kreemed on. Sweet mother of Jesus do I HATE kreem, pretty much the worst idea anyone has ever had in all of motorcycles. More on that later...

The coil wire was broken off near the coil, this painfully common on old motorcycles. The spark plug wire technology back in the day wasn't very good, rubber itself was still pretty primitive compared to the formulations available nowadays, and the Japanese were trying to cut costs by any means necessary. Where Bosch and CEV and others in europe were putting a wood-screw type dingus in the coil for you to jam the spark plug wire into, TEC and the Japs were saving a couple pennies by soldering the wire direct to the coil. The combination of heat, chemical exposure, vibration, and general abuse something sitting a few inches from the cylinder head takes, most of these spark plug wires and boots resemble a tube of tar with a wire inside it. Not very good for screwing into a spark plug boot.

I first figured out this trick when i rebuilt a CB450 sometime back around 2006.... its pretty obvious but if you do it wrong, you will go crazy trying to rule out reasons why your bike wont start. I stripped off the insulation from the spark plug wire in what i felt was the least-kinked place. Then I soldered on a new piece of copper core wire. This stuff is getting harder to find in favor of the graphite core, which obviously will not take soldering. Then I slipped a piece of fuel hose (any sturdy hose will work... i think i used 5/16" ID on this guy) over the joint after liberally applying some RTV silicone. The key being to apply the silicone to fully fill the gap between insulation, and rotate the hose back and forth into place. You dont want any air, moisture, or other nonsense to get in there.

In the end it looks like this:

With a nice long spark plug wire, plenty of room to cut-to-fit and a brand new NGK spark plug boot.
At some point in the 80's, the Jap OEM's really fixed the heck out of this problem... To be honest it probably took about 20 years from 1960 or so until 1980 for them to even realize how big of a pain in the ass the soldered in wires would become, and the Japanese are not known for making things to last forever, as their culture involves a lot of buying new junk and throwing old junk away at an astonishing rate. (Not to say modern-day America is any better) But I digress, the later model high tension coils used on 80's sportbikes are really quite awesome, they have screw-on crimp terminals that allow you to easily replace spark plug wires, and they almost never fail. If you are setting up a 12v DC ignition system, for something like a 70's honda CB... you're much better off going out and finding some later model coils with the new style connections.


By the end of Tuesday night, she was looking pretty complete. It was almost impossible to resist the urge to give her that first kick...I had hooked up the battery and kicked her over with the spark plug out of the head and she snapped a tremendous bright blue spark. The fuel line was plumbed but the oil line wasn't. The air intake plumbing was all set up. I made an executive decision to change the plumbing for fuel and oil a bit. The fuel line typically runs through the carb intake boot, but i had two brand new boots that came with the bike, and adding another hole in them sounded like more potential for air leaks. I ran the fuel in through the old oil hole, which was a perfect fit to the heavy duty Gates (I always use any gates rubber products when I can) 3/16" fuel line, and I drilled a new hole for the oil line. I ended up getting some extra crummy, non braided vaccuum hose for the oil plumbing, so I drilled a small hole in the case and jammed it through with a pretty good interference fit to seal securely.

Let me tell ya a second why I chose the vaccuum hose, first of all there isnt much room under the cover for hoses in general, and using the neoprene non-braid hose allowed me to use a small diameter and the wall thickness is much less. The oil is less chemically active than gasoline (more specifically the ethanol in the gas i'm forced to buy and subsidize with my taxes) so I wasn't as worried about shrinkage, and the two different sized hose barbs on the oil injector/oil tank... no idea why they did this... made it ideal to use a non-braid hose that i could heat up to soften, and shrink-fit onto the hose barbs. In the end it resulted in a very professional look, and the shrink-fit will prevent any air leakage (sucking air into hardened oil injector lines is the end of many injected 2-strokes). I'll add some pictures of the result, It looks pretty good and would definitely be a good project for anyone with a vintage Bridgestone that has hardened oil lines. The line that came off this bike was a ticking time bomb for air leaks.



Wednesday was devoted to making sure everything was perfecto- doing a bit of tuning, cleaning the points, checking the oil injector, making sure all the carb jetting was correct/close... getting the lights all working, etc. I couldn't wait to get the kid to sleep and get out to the garage to hear it run for the first time.

The first start was awesome, its pretty unusual for me to get a bike to light on the very first kick, so I just about crapped myself when halfway through the second kick ( was in gear the first kick!) she caught and lit right up. Wow! My first impression was how raw and potent this thing sounds, for a stock muffler and rotary valve it was very loud. It revved up so quickly also it was pretty impressive. I could just tell this was a much more highly tuned motor than the other bikes i've worked on from this era. I almost couldn't resist shutting her down, the key didn't work to turn it off either... I'll have to look at that later. A little choke killed her right out so the jetting must be pretty close. Now to finish up the last few things.
Lyle helped his dad by offering some constructive criticism and throwing toys on the ground.

The light was an easy fix, swapped it from the GP and it lit right up. I swapped the tail light bulb about 3 times because for some reason i had a whole drawer full of bulbs with good brake light filiaments and no tail light filament. Why the hell would i have kept those?

The front tube was shot... not only was it the wrong tube completely (2.25x17- moped sized- in an 3x17 tire!!!) it had no rim strip whatsoever, and was rapidly degrading into its component hydrocarbons. MotorWest motorcycleshooked me up with a new one and even stayed late so I could come pick it up.

The clutch took some adjusting, and I went over everything a few times because my friend had disassembled the bike and I wasn't sure what he had messed with. The first few drives around the block, she was feeling healthy. The cylinder was making good torque, slipping the clutch when the powerband hit, and sounding healthy throughout the revs.

I finished up the bike just in time for the Cranks Weds night moped ride on March 14, 2012. Literally got the bulbs replaced just as it was getting dark. Caite and I got her folks to watch the kid for the night and we saddled up for our first ride together since before she got pregnant. Awesome, so much fun! I was hoping to get some shake-down time in before Frozen Snot ride on the following Saturday,

The ride was awesome, simple and chill, went to a bar with a free grill and made some meats. The weather was record high of 75 degrees (in milwaukee, in march! ) so there were a ton of people out and we were all feeling pretty awesome. The bike did well, obviously the enduro gearing was silly short, first gear was a complete joke and I had the piss revved out of her keeping up with the mopeds at 45. The clutch was completely screwy. My 'fix' didn't hold up to an entire night of kickstarts. She started slipping and with it, the clutch was hanging up. I think the slipping bushing allowed the basket to move in and out with the thrust from the helical gear, so when I was engine breaking, the clutch locked up and was hanging at stop lights. Wouldn't have been a big deal with just me, but trying to do all that shifting with a girl on the back was a lot of work. Took a couple stalls-combined with slippy kickstarts- to get the hang of the rotary shifter. Plus for some reason the hanging clutch was causing her to go into 4th gear instead of 1st gear on the first down from neutral. Weird.



 .. more coming soon!
Sours: http://outofcontrolmopeds.blogspot.com/p/bridgestone-100s.html
  1. Danby dehumidifier control panel
  2. Freya statue
  3. Emily henderson bookshelves
  4. Grip contact paper
  5. Ford camper van 2019

(06-03-2020, 03:40 AM)MotorCityCobra Wrote:  Hello. Today i bought myself a vintage Bridgestone for about 200$. It is a Suntour Power gearsystem/shifters and on the bike it says "Tested Finest Bicycle With Precision Mechanism".

What year is this bike from, and is it handmade? I think its from the late 70s.

https://imgur.com/a/GrKxIsQ

Another issue/question: when i push down the left gear shitfer, the chain on the bike comes off. This happened 4-5 times. How to solve this issue?

(06-03-2020, 12:34 PM)MotorCityCobra Wrote:  Spotted the serial number after cleaning the bike.
The number is: G(7 or Y)80380. Does the 80 at the end mean the bike is from 1980?

Welcome MotorCityCobra!

I don't know how Bridgestone serialized their bikes. It may very well be that that first or last "80" is a date code; however it could also be that the first "8" is a date code of the last digit in a year (ex. 1978). The "G" may also be a date code itself or in combination with the numbers. You may be able to research that number, but it is usually a hit or miss endeavor.
Personally, I would check the components for date codes on them. The "SR"/Sakae Ringyo (crankset) should have a date code on the inside of the arm; generally a two digit number (year) followed by a letter (month). The crankset is of a low end quality; the ring "fixing bolts" are not flush to the ring/spider, and the large ring integrated with the spider is low end design; there were many versions of "APEX 5" cranksets of higher quality. These cranks are more likely to be found on an entry level sport/recreational or touring bikes; this is also typified by the dual eyelets at the front and rear dropouts for mounting fenders and racks. The Sun Tour components also have date codes of two letters (year/month). The frame design indicates a mid-late 70's bike, and components more late 70s. It still may be that this is a 1980(s) bike, but was fitted with parts from the previous year or two (not an uncommon practice).
The price you paid wasn't horrible if EVERYTHING is in proper working order and you got NEW OR VERY GOOD condition tires and cables with it; but that being said it really isn't much of a collectible (it would not be considered a "handmade" bike), although it should make a decent rider once properly set-up and adjusted. I probably would put it more in the range of $100 if I was buying it, as there are many higher quality Bridgestone bikes out there. If tires are really good, that is an approximate $30-$80 (can easily go higher) savings right there depending on what level of tire you buy; cables are usually fairly cheap.
As far as the front derailleur throwing the chain off the ring, it is more than likely caused by the improper adjustment of the "low" limit screw which can be screwed in a little more to keep the derailleur cage from travelling too far past the chain ring; the "high" limit screw should also be checked to ensure that it doesn't do the same thing on the large ring. I would also check these same adjustments for the rear derailleur; especially on the wheel side due to there being no "spoke protector" guard! If you are not "bike mechanically" inclined you may want to bring it to a reputable shop (or experienced friend) and have it done for you; it should take less than 10 minutes, and be a low cost fix (like $10 or so; $20 is high in my opinion). Also, you may want the shop to go through the entire bike and tune it up (all bearings cleaned/repacked/adjusted, etc.), certainly a longer maintenance endeavor, and costing a fair amount even if no parts are replaced.
Hope I've helped some; overall you've got a good bike that can last for another 40 years with proper care/maintenance.

Take care,
Jesper

Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS

Sours: https://forums.bikeride.com/thread-6801.html
1990 Bridgestone MB5 ride - Cool bikes that aren’t mine 01

1985 Bridgestone MB-2

According to the 1985 Bridgestone Catalog the MB-2 is

  • a substantial all terrain bicycle with Cr-Mo oversized tubing, SR triple crank, SHIMANO AT-50 cantilever type brakes, etc., usually equipped only on top-quality bikes.

  • Good for city use as well.

  • Available in Shadow Blue.

What they didn’t know when they wrote the catalog was that the Bridgestone MB series would go on to have one of the bicycle world’s most dedicated cult followings. Why? According to bicycling guru Sheldon Brown (RIP),

“In the '80s this design was considered ‘radical’ but it proved itself on the trail, and was copied by everybody a few years later. This Bridgestone design still is the standard for rigid-frame MTBs.”

The MB series, along with many other Bridgestone America bicycles, were designed by Grant Peterson, everyone’s favorite bicycle iconoclast. Like just about everything else he touched, the MB series bikes were not only ahead of their time, they were timeless. You won’t find a better designed commuter bike on the planet, and if you’ve got the bicycle handling skills to pay the bills, you may not find a better fully rigid mountain bike either.

We could go down a long rabbit hole talking about Grant, Bridgestone in general, the Rivendell Bikes Grant creates now, but let’s focus on this particular one.

This is the very first year of the MB series. The MB-1 was the top-o-the-line model, and the MB-2 is darn near the same bike with some slightly different components. These only came in 19’’ and 21’’ sized frames; this one is a 21’’, so we’ll call it medium-big. The frame is lugged, meaning Cr-Mo tubes were brazed into Cr-Mo sleeves (lugs), and the result is a super strong, super sexy looking frame. The handlebar! That’s a bullmoose bar designed by Tom Ritchey, and with the color (Shadow Blue) matching the frame, it don’t come any cooler. Gold rims, gold chainrings… you’ve got to be kidding me!

The $500 price tag below might seem high. It’s not. We could sell this on ebay tomorrow for $1000, but we won’t and you shouldn’t either. Please, honor the journey of this bicycle by riding it down the streets of Boise, maybe some dirt roads, with a big smile on your face! Buyer beware…you will receive a bizarre amount of bicycle nerd love if you choose to ride this bike in public!

Sours: https://www.boisebicycleproject.org/bbpexperience/2020/3/2/preservation-bicycle-17-1960-1969-schwinn-corvette-kchls-e52bt-mnm9p-r5p27-wbn9s

Bicycle bridgestone 100

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    Bridgestone RB2 w  Dura Ace -  499  Overland Park

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  • TALL Bridgestone Kabuki SSD Road bike -  135  Inver Grove Heights
    TALL Bridgestone Kabuki SSD Road bike -  135  Inver Grove Heights

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    100% original including tires and bar wrap. TALL 25" frame. 34.5" stand-over height. Suntour 10 speed. 27" wheels. Shifts and stops as it should. This thing is a BEAST. $135 cash.

  • Bridgestone Hybrid Bike Bicycle -  348  Towson
    Bridgestone Hybrid Bike Bicycle -  348  Towson

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  • 48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike -  200  Cleveland Park
    48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike -  200  Cleveland Park

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    A nice bike. Recently tuned. Call or email Andrew at .

  • 62 cm Bridgestone 300 Road Bike -  250  Harrisburg
    62 cm Bridgestone 300 Road Bike -  250  Harrisburg

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  • Bridgestone Synergy RB3 Road Bike -  150  Beverly
    Bridgestone Synergy RB3 Road Bike -  150  Beverly

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  • Bridgestone Roadbike -  90  Pullman
    Bridgestone Roadbike -  90  Pullman

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  • 48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike -  200  Cleveland Park
    48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike -  200  Cleveland Park

    48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike - $200 (Cleveland Park)

    A nice bike. Recently tuned. Call or email Andrew at .

    City:

    Southern Maryland, MD

  • 48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike -  200  Cleveland Park
    48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike -  200  Cleveland Park

    48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike - $200 (Cleveland Park)

    A nice bike. Recently tuned. Call or email Andrew at .

  • Bridgestone RB2 w  Dura Ace -  499  Overland Park
    Bridgestone RB2 w  Dura Ace -  499  Overland Park

    Bridgestone RB2 w/ Dura Ace - $499 (Overland Park)

    this Bridgestone is a beautiful bike, it has cromo lugged frame & Dura Ace components. If you're looking for a high end bike at a really good price you need to check this one out. this bike measures 19 1/2 inches from the center of the crank arm to the top of the seat post. this bike has a full tuneup and safety check and comes with a 90 day warranty. Thank you for looking, Nick

  • 48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike -  200  Cleveland Park
    48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike -  200  Cleveland Park

    48cm Bridgestone 200 road bike - $200 (Cleveland Park)

    A nice bike. Recently tuned. Call or email Andrew at .

  • 1986 Bridgestone 400C Road Bicycle  56cm    Modifications -  375  Knoxville
    1986 Bridgestone 400C Road Bicycle  56cm    Modifications -  375  Knoxville

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    Classic road bike with modifications. Primarily used as a short trip commuter for the past 17 years. Has minor cosmetic wear from rubbing at bike racks, some surface rust on headset, will definitely need new handlebar wraps (and old tubes--it has been sitting for a while), but otherwise the bike has been babied and kept inside for the past 14 years.Modifications:1. NITTO deluxe wide handlebars2. U

  • 1988 Bridgestone TrailBlazer 20 quot  Mountain Bike -  550  Dundee
    1988 Bridgestone TrailBlazer 20 quot  Mountain Bike -  550  Dundee

    1988 Bridgestone TrailBlazer 20" Mountain Bike - $550 (Dundee)

    This bike is in exceptionally good original condition. The bike has new grips, new tires and tubes, new chain, new pedals, new front brake pads, and new water bottle cage. The paint is in excellent condition. There are a couple of small and minimal scuff marks and scratches, mostly on the non-drive side. The drive side is near perfect. The bike has cro-mo forks and tange cro-mo tubing on the frame

  • Sours: https://www.shoppok.com/bikes-for-sale-cg/bridgestone-sp19
    Bridgestone Kubaki Touring Bike

    Bridgestone 100

    Bridgestone 100


    I came across a bridgestone 100 bicycle, the components were pretty much shot, the rims rusted out, tires dry rotted, derailers and chain completely frozen, but the frame is in excellent shape. The owner just gave it to me, so the price was right for a winter fixed gear conversion/ beater.
    I've looked all over for information on this bike, i've only found pictures and information about the 200, 300 and 400,
    the frame is the kabuki style with cast aluminum lugs, and the expander type seatpost, it doesn't have the false binder tabs though. There aren't any other markings on it other than the serial, I did a quick tap test and the tubing is double butted, (or appears to be) and after striping the frame (paint was chiped off in places and the pittsburgh winter isn't kind to bare metal) the tubing is all seamless.
    i'd apreciate any info on this model,
    Thanks
    Eliot

    Sours: https://www.bikeforums.net/

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