Baseball cap sewing pattern pdf

Baseball cap sewing pattern pdf DEFAULT

Introduction: DIY Baseball Cap

This is one of those things I never even thought was possible to make myself. Until I tried it. It totally worked! Follow along with the steps to make your own DIY baseball cap in any cool colour or fabric you like. You just need a sacrificial cap for the brim insert, since they seem to be pretty impossible to buy anywhere... Can somebody fix that? Until then, I suggest going to the second hand store and picking the oldest, ugliest cap you can find and giving it a new life!

You can watch the video or read the steps here, whatever you prefer.

What you'll need:

- An old baseball cap

- Paper for your pattern

- Fabric, preferably a bit thicker and not stretchy

- Matching thread

- Fusible interfacing (not stretchy)

- Sewing machine

- Zipper foot - Scissors

- Seam ripper

- Iron

Step 1: Take the Old Cap Apart

To understand how a baseball cap is made, I got an old one from the second hand store. It’s stained and a kid used it to draw on, so I don’t feel too bad about taking it apart. I’ll be reusing the plastic insert in the brim for the new cap.

While I was at the second hand store, I also got this men’s shirt, which I will use as the fabric for my cap. It’s pretty faded on the outside, but the inside still looks good. So I’ll use the inside of the shirt as the outside of my cap.

The first step is to take the old cap apart. You’ll want to do this carefully, since you’ll be using the pieces to make a pattern. So get out that seam ripper and start taking it apart.

Make sure you save the plastic insert in the brim, because you’ll be using that in your new cap.

Step 2: Make a Pattern

Now that you’ve got all the pieces, you can use them to make a pattern. To do that, simply trace the outline of the pieces onto some paper. While doing this, make sure to fold the seam allowance out of the way. That way, you can add a bigger seam allowance later, which will make the sewing a lot easier.

The cap has three different panels, a brim cover and a facing. After tracing each of these, add a 1,5 centimer (3/4 inch) seam allowance around each of them. Then, cut them out, and you have your finished pattern.

Step 3: Cut the Fabric & Add Interfacing

The next step is to cut the pieces out of the fabric. Since I'm using an old shirt for my fabric, I started by taking that shirt apart so that I have flat pieces of fabric to work with.

Since my fabric is pretty thin and a bit stretchy, I’m also going to add interfacing to it. You'll have to decide based on your fabric if you think this is necesary.

If you're adding interfacing, trace the pattern pieces onto the interfacing. For each of the three panels, you’ll need a left and a right version, so the two pieces need to be mirrored versions of each other. To achieve this, fold the interfacing over and cut through both layers at the same time.

Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric. The precise instructions are different for different brands of interfacing, so just follow the instructions that come with yours. Then cut around the interfacing to get the final pieces. Repeat these steps for the facing, but only cutting one, not two.

If you're not adding interfacing, simly trace the pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric and cut them out. Make sure to make left and right versions of the cap pieces.

Cut two identical brim pieces, without adding any interfacing. It’s fine if the fabric here remains a bit stretchy, since it will help it cover the brim nicely. I left the fabric a bit big on the inside to give some room for error later.

Finally, I decided to add a second layer of interfacing to the front panels. The front section is usually made a bit stiffer in baseball caps to help it keep its shape. If you also want to do this, you can just iron on the second layer of interfacing directly on top of the first layer.

Step 4: Assemble the Cap

Now on to assembly! The easiest way is to make the two halves of the cap first and then stitch those together. Start by stitching the front and middle panel together for each of the halves. Place them right sides together, pin them in place along the seam and sew a straight stitch 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) from the side. But make sure that you don’t sew all the way to the top! You’ll want to stop about 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) from the end. This will make the next assembly steps much easier and neater.

And now for the secret trick. You’ll want to press open each of the cap seams with an iron. It may seem like a lot of extra work or an unnecessary step, but you’ll see that it’s the key to making your cap look really clean and professional. I found that pressing around the curve works best on the tip of my ironing board.

Next, add two lines of topstitching, one on either side of the seam. Like the pressing, this helps keep that seam really neat and gives your cap that professional look. It’s best to do this with the right side of the fabric facing up, so you can make sure you keep the same distance from the seam. Just make sure you only stitch through a single layer of seam allowance underneath. But after the pressing, that shouldn’t be too hard.

Now you’re ready to add the back panels. Place the panel on top of the middle panel and pin it in place. Again, sew 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) from the side, and stop 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) from the top.

Now you can really see the difference that the pressing and topstitching makes!

Again, press open the seam allowances and top stitch on both sides of the seam. At this point, you should see your two seams meet up at around 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) away from the edge.

To make sure the fabric doesn’t ravel, you’ll need to treat the edges. Since the interfacing will help against the raveling, it’s enough to cut along the sides with pinking shears. If you didn’t use interfacing, you can stitch a zigzag stitch at the edge of all of the seam allowances instead.

The two halves are now finished, and you can put them together. Place them right sides together and pin them in place, making sure the centers line up. Sew all along the top seam in one go, again 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) from the edge. Then press the seam open.

Step 5: Check & Adjust the Size

Now is a good time to check the size of your cap. I actually didn’t check until I did a few extra steps, as you can see in the picture, and I had to undo those steps to make the cap fit me right.

Put your cap on and see if it’s too big or small anywhere. Mine turned out to be too big at the back. Pinch the fabric together so that it fits properly, take it off and make marks to show how much you need to take in. Take out the back seam, draw a new stitching line and adapt your pattern for future use. Then stitch the new seam. Again, press the seam open and add the top stitching. Then cut off the excess fabric and the main part of the cap is done!

Step 6: Finish the Back

Finish the back by adding bias tape around the raw edge. First, measure how long your bias tape needs to be. For me, it’s 20 centimeters. Then, cut a piece fabric on the bias of the fabric, which is a 45 degree angle. Mine is 4 centimeters wide and 23 centimeters long. I made it a bit longer than needed, just to be safe. Because the fabric is cut on the bias, it is a lot more stretchy than the original fabric, which is what you want.

Fold over the edges to the middle and iron them down. Then fold the whole thing in half once more and iron it down again. You have now made your own bias tape.

I added a 1,5 centimeter seam allowance to the back, which I don’t need, so I’m marking it and cutting it off.

Place the bias tape around the raw edge and pin it in place. Use lots of pins here, since you’re going around a curve. Use a straight stitch to sew it in place, close to the inner edge.

Step 7: Add the Closure

To close the back you could use the snap form the original cap, but I decided to use elastic encased in fabric instead. To do this, first measure how long the piece needs to be. For me, it’s 10 centimeters. I’m using elastic that’s 2 centimeter wide, so I’m cutting a piece of fabric that’s 4 centimeters wide and 10 centimeters long, plus seam allowance on all sides.

Cut a piece of elastic that is 6 centimeters, and se it in place on either end of the fabric strip. This will make the fabric bunch around the elastic. Next, fold over the fabric and sew right next to the elastic to make a tube. Stretch the elastic as you sew and make sure not to stitch through the elastic!

Cut off extra fabric next to the seam and then turn the tube inside out, so that the elastic ends up on the inside. I ended up using a chop stick to push it through. In the end, you should have a nice stretchy piece to use on the back of your hat.

Make a mark at 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) from the bottom of your cap and sew the elastic closure in place on both sides. You’ll be folding over the extra fabric later to give the cap a nice edge.

Step 8: Attach the Brim

To make a cover for the brim, trace its shape onto the wrong side of the fabric. Then pin the two layers together, but place the top layer a bit inwards from the bottom layer. This way, the bottom piece will be a bit smaller than the top piece, which will make the seam sit on the bottom side of the brim. This is another thing that will give your cap that professional look. I'm then sewing on top of the line that I drew earlier. If your fabric is not stretchy at all, you’ll want to sew a bit on the outside of this line, otherwise your cover may end up too small.

Place the brim insert inside to check the size. Cut some slits into the seam allowance to help it go around the curve of the brim and use pinking shears around the edge to help against fraying.

Turn the cover inside out and place the brim inside again. Push the seam allowance to the bottom side of the brim and pull the fabric nice and tight. You can now see how that seam ends up on the bottom side of the brim.

Pin the fabric in place and use a zipper foot to sew as close to the edge of the insert as you can. Cut off the excess fabric to 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) of the seam and cut slits into the fabric to help it around the curve.

Place the brim right sides together on the front of the hat and pin it in place. Sew it in place, again using a zipper foot and stitching as close to the edge of the insert as possible. This step is a bit tricky, and it’s very easy to sew through extra layers of fabric accidentally. So just take your time and possibly sew the seam in sections.

Step 9: Add the Facing

Finally, you need to add the facing to the inside of the cap. First, cut little slits into to inside curve. Fold over this edge 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch), pin it in place and sew it down. Next, cut little slits in the outside curve and cut along the edges with pinking shears.

Place the facing right sides together along the bottom edge of the cap. Make sure to leave some extra room near the back. Sew the facing in place at 1,5 centimeters (3/4 inch) from the edge. I found it worked best to sew the two sides in place first, and then sew around the brim with a zipper foot.

Fold the facing inside the hat and press it down with an iron. Finish the back edges by folding them inwards and stitching them in place. Finally, stitch along the whole edge of the cap, around 3 millimeters from the bottom, to keep the facing on the inside. Again, I stitched around the two sides first, and then used a zipper foot to stitch along the brim.

And then your baseball cap is done! It might not be the easiest project, but I think it's a very fun one and definitely worth the effort.

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Baseball Cap & Visor Digital PDF Sewing Pattern

The Colorado Cap & Visor PDF pattern is the perfect accessory to top off any outfit. The three style options of a 6-panel Baseball Cap, a single front panel Trucker Cap, and a Visor with two options for standard or contoured side pieces allow you to create a wide variety of looks and styles. The choices continue as you look at the different closure options for the back: elastic, D rings, or Velcro. Plus the large size range of XSmall to XLarge (18.5″-23.5″ head circumference) means everyone gets a new hat or visor, all from the same pattern! From a nice sunshade Visor on the beach to a fashionably trendy Trucker style, or a classic Baseball cap to wear to the game, this pattern has you covered.

5 Sizes: XSmall, Small, Medium, Large, & XLarge

Suggested fabrics for this pattern are: Woven fabrics such as cotton, denim, and canvas. Sturdy Knit fabrics with a medium weight value when used with a non-stretch interfacing.

This pattern is rated as Confident Beginner+



SKU: PDFPattern_ColoradoCapCategories: Accessories, Bags, & Lifestyle, Hoodies, Jackets, & SweatersTags: accessories, accessory, adult clothes, adult clothing, adult pdf pattern, baby clothes, baby hat, baseball cap, boy clothes, boy clothing, child clothing, girl clothes, girls clothing, hat, infant clothing, knit, pdf pattern, sports hat, sports visor, summer hat, trucker cap, trucker hat, unisex clothes, visor, woven

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So 2019 has arrived (far too quickly) and I have been putting things off for far too long: I have been working on producing various sewing patterns for the last year or so but 2019 is the year I finally pull my finger out and get things sorted!

Today I can finally announce pattern number 1 “From the studio” has been released. The ‘Clovelly’ Cap. A classic ‘Baseball’ cap but with a contemporary feel. Made in Tweed, Wool or Denim with a contrasting upper brim of Leather (or similar) it looks great (even if I say so myself)!

Clovelly Cap

The PDF pattern comprises 10, illustrated instruction pages and either one A3 or three A4 pattern sheets (so no sticking together!). The pattern is for an adult but I am working on a children’s version too. It is a ‘One size’ adjustable cap that can be sewn using basic sewing equipment. Although it is a ‘One-Size’ pattern there are 3 different size ranges. S, M and Large that accommodate a cap size of 57-67cm.

The pattern is available now in my SHOP for immediate download so why not try something new?

Oh and if you are wondering about the name….All of my patterns will be named after towns/villages from Devon. After  Clovelly (and its junior) you will see the ‘Spreyton’ Shirt.


Until next time…..Happy Sewing

How to Make Leather Baseball Cap Pattern

40+ Free Hat & Cap Patterns

And since most sewn hats are constructed from pretty basic shapes, they can be fairly quick to make and can make a great first project for a beginner just learning how to sew.

And one of the fleece designs may make an especially good first sewing project because fleece doesn't fray.

And as you can see from a few of these designs, making a knit cap can be a great way to recycle an old sweater (especially those colorful sweaters from the 80's we don't quite know what to do with!). And as long as the knit is fairly tight, you can sew it just as you would any knit fabric.

And since many of these designs are made with knit fabrics, here are a couple of tips for working with knits:

Use a special "stretch stitch" (or a tiny zigzag stitch) when sewing your knit fabric so that the seams in your finished hat will stretch properly when the hat is worn. And use a ballpoint needle in your sewing machine (instead of a standard needle) which will slide between the fibers of your knit fabric instead of piercing them.

Please note: Most of the links below will take you to another website.

Also, this page may contain affiliate links, which means I may make a commission if you purchase something from one of these websites (but the patterns linked to should be free).


Cap pattern pdf sewing baseball

Baseball Cap

Product Description

You will just love being able to make your own personalized Baseball Cap, make it in any combination of colours and fabric to suit your fashion style.

Fabric Suggestion

Canvas, Velvet, Drill, Denim

Pattern Format

Printed Pattern - Single-Size
Single-size hard copy sewing pattern, mailed to your delivery address.

More Pattern Formats

PDF Pattern - Single-Size
Single-size PDF sewing pattern download, sent to your email address in multi-sheet/tiled format for printing at home on A4 or US letter size paper AND single-sheet/wide format for printing at a copy shop. You get the size you order, PLUS the two closest sizes. Please note that the wide format files are set up for printing on 36" wide (or wider) paper rolls, not A0 paper sheets.

For more information on digital patterns click here.

Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review.

Finished Cap Measurements:

  • Head circumference (adjustable) = 60 cm or 23.5”
  • Peak width = 17.5 cm or 7”
  • Peak depth = 6.5 cm or 2.5”


  • 1 x covered button 15mm (24L); Velcro 5cm (2”) long and 2cm (3/4”) wide
Fabric Estimate
Fabric WidthOne Size
148 cm / 58 in25 cm / 10 in
Lining Estimate
Fabric WidthOne Size
148 cm / 58 in50 cm / 20 in
Fabric WidthOne Size
90 cm / 36 in50 cm / 20 in
Canvas for peak
One Size
20 x 10 cm / 8 x 4 in

Sizing Help

Size Chart - CM

SizeA. Shoulder Breadth (cm)B. Upper Arm Girth (cm)C. Bust (cm)D. Waist (cm)E. Hip (cm)

Size Chart - Inches

SizeA. Shoulder Breadth (inches)B. Upper Arm Girth (inches)C. Bust (inches)D. Waist (inches)E. Hip (inches)
2618 3/415 5/853 1/246.556
2819 1/416 1/856 48.558 1/4
3019 3/416 5/858 1/450.561

Size Conversion Table


How Do I Know What Size I Am?

Choosing your pattern size is the most important step and we will help you determine this with these easy to follow steps.

  1. When taking your measurements ensure that you take them against your skin and not over clothing. One can wear a comfortable bra and knickers whilst measuring, as this will provide you with the most accurate measurements.
  2. Tape measure has to sit firmly around the points you are measuring. But be careful not to pull it too tight, as this will give you the incorrect size.
  3. When measuring circumferences (B, C, D, E) it is important to note that the tape measure must remain parallel to the floor. It is sometimes best to take the measurements in front of a mirror; this will help you see the angle of the tape measure.
  4. You will only require the basic body measurements to determine your pattern size which is indicated on our mannequin below:
A. Shoulder Breadth

Place the tape at the edge of the shoulder. Measure along the top of the shoulder blade/across the highest point of the shoulders to the other edge, following the natural slope and allow an extra finger for ease of any movement.

B. Upper Arm Girth

This point is taken as a circumference at your widest point of your upper arm.

C. Bust

This point is taken as a circumference parallel to the floor at the fullest part of your chest.

D. Waist

This point is taken as a circumference and taken at the smallest part of your waist.

E. Hip

This point is taken as a circumference parallel to the floor at the widest part of your hips.

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Cory bucket hat - Digital PDF Sewing Pattern - Teaser


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