C10 steering wheel removal

C10 steering wheel removal DEFAULT

1984 Chevy c10 steering wheel removal/turn signal diagnosis

Alright guys what we're going to be doing here today is pulling the steering wheel to determine why my left directional no longer cancels I've been given some ideas but I have to pull the steering wheel to figure it out.

As you can see put on the right direction all it cancels by itself but the left directional does not right does left doesn't so. This is actually the first time I'm going to be removing a steering wheel at all.

We'll be learning together when you shoot this video and edit it afterwards alright so. This is a 1984 Chevy c10 305 two-wheel drive horn plate just pops right off on here we've got the steering wheel nut lock nut and some torques screws I've assembled some tools already which I feel we will need for the job a couple pliers needlenose regular flathead see here we've got a number 20 Torx the Torx screws got 3/16 socket my steering wheel nut and here we have om brand steering wheel puller from autozone free rental $20 deposit get a $20 back when you return it there are five eighths for the sin of pressure screw some pressure bolt and half-inch for these bolts.

Start by removing this clip here but I just use the needle nose like.

1984 Chevy c10 steering wheel removal/turn signal diagnosis

To spread it apart just open it up and pulled it pulled it right off alright need thirteen sixteenths got an extension it's kind of hard with one hand shooting video alright get our number 20 torques I'm going to leave this screw in to keep everything in place whoo 29 years old whooped I think we needed that. Okay, well there's a spring that smell spring just popped out ooh that's actually the horn. All right, good to know this little plastic part. Okay, got this thing position now got the different bolts then all have different thread pitches on them.

Finally you find the right bolts with the right thread pitches that thread into your steering wheel you fix this little cup here to the end get it all nice and tight and let's see what happens looks like this thing's about to pop off. Okay, put these supplied washers on here I'm pretty sure they're actually supposed to go on these bolts but put these supplied washes on here there's a little bit of a gap here on the skin wheel.

I'm definitely doing something just trying to fill in some space with those washers it doesn't pop off the end again let's now see what we can do and there we go boom just like that. All right, we got to this point this cover here comes off it's a kind of clips in behind some of these grooves.

Actually / OE M instructions a simple flat head screwdriver plot pry this gently as you can see we're somewhere here well I did snap it here somewhere but yep just get him behind there with a flat head just like.

And work around the whole whole perimeter until this thing pops off and then it says to use a compression tool to push this out of the way because the next task is going to be to remove this but. This is held in place by there's a little ring right in right and behind here I don't know if you can see it right in there as a ring but let's see if I can push a little bit see that ring we have to remove.

We can pop this plate off. All right, I got the spring I'm sorry I got the ring clip out using I got this heavy-duty dental pick ones a flat ones a pick I actually use both ends in combination with another small flat head.

I got that ring off and let's see what we got behind here. All right, I'm learning right with you I've never done this before well get this which is part of the horn element Oh metal.

The spring went down in there you can see little metal tab which is right there which makes contact with this right here I guess that's the horn or yeah sure enough just what everybody said the part to cancel the directional is this spring right here which is m.i.a not here.

I need to get a new spring place the spring call it a day.

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Steering Column Removal on 1965 C10

#914885Sat Jan 26 2013 06:09 PM



Wrench Fetcher

I am about to remove my cab from my 1965 C10 and I am looking for advice on how to remove the steering column. The truck has a Powerglide automatic transmission. Any advice is welcomed.

Re: Steering Column Removal on 1965 C10

bargy1#914945Sat Jan 26 2013 10:06 PM



Wrench Fetcher

Remove the cross bolt at the rag joint and tap on the rag joint the free from steering box but don't take all the way off the splines at this time. re move the clamp at the firewall and take out the three bolts holding on the bracket that the clamp went to.Disconnect the shifter linkage from column. Now move to the inside of the truck and remove the four screws holding the cover plate on the back side of the firewall. If your truck is nice, has the seat still in it, or for eaze of removal remove steering wheel. I have removed them with steering wheel attached but it is very tight and tough to do. Now remove ebrake handle from column bracket. remove the four bolts holding the column bracket to the pedal assembly. At the point the column will drop down till the steering shaft touches the bottom of the hole in the firewall. NOw pull back on the column. you may have to get back out and tap on the rag joint as someone pulls back on the column. Once you are free of the steering box twist the column till the shift arm will fit thru the hole with the column. Good luck Lyle

65 K10 Longbox Fleetside Big Back Window Custom Cab
65 K10 Flatbed
Old School Parts 60-66
[email protected]

Re: Steering Column Removal on 1965 C10

bargy1#915183Sun Jan 27 2013 08:48 PM



Wrench Fetcher

Thanks 66Suburban. Your reply is very helpful!

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  2. Should be one large nut under the center cover.Most are tapered shaft and the splines will be tight.
    A wheel puller may be needed or a swift smack of a hammer from the underside of the steering wheel.
    Be careful also for any wires that may be in there if the truck has the city horn or any other controls on the steering wheel.
  3. The steering wheel im takin out used the shops puller and it stripped it days almost over but gonna get another puller tomorrow pretty new to diesel mechanics but it suppose to be on so tight that you need an impact?
    Depending on the Steering Wheel, some you don't need a puller, just spray some PB Blaster or WD-40 on the shaft and threads.

    Hold the wheel at the 2 and 8 o'clock position and rock it up, while pulling up at the same time, than do the same thing at the 10 and 4 o'clock position.

    Do it until the wheel pops off.

    If you like your teeth and face, I would keep the steering wheel fastener on there loosely, because when the wheel pops off, you'll know about it.
    Last edited: May 18, 2017
  4. SHOOT DEERE IT IS said: ↑
    Any hints/tips/tricks to getting this wheel off? I have never had one off and plan to tear into it this afternoon. It's off a 1999 T8. Thanks

    This thing is ugly!!!!
    Depending on the Steering Wheel, some you don't need a puller, just spray some PB Blaster or WD-40 on the shaft and threads.

    Hold the wheel at the 2 and 8 o'clock position and rock it up, while pulling up at the same time, than do the same thing at the 10 and 4 o'clock position.

    Do it until the wheel pops off.

    If you like your teeth and face, I would keep the steering wheel fastener on there loosely, because when the wheel pops off, you'll know about it.
  5. Better yet is there anyway to bypass a 2008 W900 Kenworth smartwheel just get rid of it completely what's entailed and doing it I have the schematics
    SHOOT DEERE IT IS said: ↑
    Any hints/tips/tricks to getting this wheel off? I have never had one off and plan to tear into it this afternoon. It's off a 1999 T8. Thanks

    This thing is ugly!!!!
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    How to remove and install a steering wheel on your Squarebody Chevy.

    How to Remove a Steering Wheel If You Cannot Use a Wheel Puller

    Removing the steering wheel from your car or truck is not a difficult task if you have the right tools, particularly a steering wheel puller. But if you don't have a steering wheel puller, taking off the steering wheel becomes a bit trickier. You have to be a bit more creative than you would be under normal circumstances and employ a few nontraditional methods, but it can still be done at home with a few more common tools.

    Step 1

    Unbolt the center bolt on the steering wheel using the 1/2-inch ratchet and socket. Spray the center shaft of the steering wheel, where the bolt was just removed, with the penetrating oil and let the steering wheel sit for about an hour.

    Step 2

    Place your hands on the 9 and 3 o'clock positions on the steering wheel. Pull the steering wheel toward you with equal force. If the wheel doesn't come off, then try pulling the steering wheel with alternating hands, trying to wiggle off the steering wheel. If it still doesn't come off, proceed to Step 3.

    Step 3

    Strike the backside of the steering wheel toward the center of the column with the rubber mallet, moving around side to side to try to evenly remove the item. If the mallet doesn't work, go to Step 4.

    Place the pry bar between the steering column and the steering wheel. Pry the steering wheel off of the column, moving the tip of the pry bar around the steering wheel to pull it off of the column evenly.

    Things You'll Need

    • 1/2-inch ratchet and socket set
    • Penetrating oil
    • Rubber mallet
    • 24-inch pry bar

    Writer Bio

    Russell Wood is a writer and photographer who attended Arizona State University. He has been building custom cars and trucks since 1994, including several cover vehicles. In 2000 Wood started a career as a writer, and since then he has dedicated his business to writing and photographing cars and trucks, as well as helping people learn more about how vehicles work.

    More Articles

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    Steering wheel removal c10

    Written by: Brandon Hicks

    This is a “how-to” article written by Brandon (a.k.a. 79BIG10) on how remove and install your steering column.  Brandon wrote this after he replaced the column in his '79, but it should be accurate (or very close) for all 73-87 models.  Thanks for the great article Brandon!

    1. First make sure wheels are totally straight. Also disconnect the ground on the battery.
    2. Remove the lower bezel cover below the steering wheel.
    3. Remove the lower metal dash panel and the heater duct as well. Move any wires out of the way. This will save you a headache later.
    4. Remove the 4 bolts (2 either side) that connect the steering brace to the dash metal undercarriage. The bracket also holds the wires coming from the column upper to the lower part. Keep the bracket and bolts you will need these on reinstall.
    5. The column will be looser now. Don't move it too much. Now you will do down the column and on the top or the right side you will find wiring connector for the turn signal, horn etc. This is a flat black piece of plastic with wires that connects to the same kind with the same color wires on the other side. To disconnect release the tabs on the outer edges and pull the plastic not the wires!!
    6. Once the column is loose you will then be able to see the top of the column where the next connection is to take off. This is the ignition switch that is connected to the key switch. It simply pulls straight off.
    7. Next at the base of the column you will see the 4 wires and 2 plastic connections that mount to the base of the steering wheel column. These easily disconnect by pulling the plastic pieces straight out. Remember the positions they were in for reconnection.
    8. You now will need to remove the carpet and rubber mat (if there) to get to the rubber gasket that surrounds the tilt column. This comes out with a few bolts and a good pull. The edges are sharp so be careful not to cut yourself.
    9. Once the cover is out the inside part is done and onto under the hood. Inside the engine compartment you will see where the transmission linkage hooks up to the shifter column (for automatics). You need to remove the cotter pin that holds the shifter rod to the column's shifter hole. Once you remove the cotter pin the rod moves out easily.
    10. Next go to the 2 nuts that hold the steering shaft to the steering gear box. These come off easily and the shaft will then be free to move easier.
    11. Now the last part is to take off the 2 nuts that are holding the steering column in. These are at the firewall right under the brake booster and the bolts do not come out just take off the nuts. This is a very tight spot. Once you have both nuts off and the bracket off then you need to pull the steering column out. Make sure to have all the wire free and clear. Use the steering wheel to pull out the column. This helps in turning the column any way it needs to go. Once you have the column completely out you need to swap over the steering shafts.
    12. Take the bolt and nut loose from the shaft and it will be tough to take out. I used a lot my feet on the hook up for the shaft to the gear box then pulled up on the column shaft not the steering wheel. It also helps to lubricate it with WD-40 or something similar.
    13. Next once you have it off then if you want to paint the shaft then do so.

    14. Now reinstall the same way it came out of the old column. I used a block of wood and a hammer to install the shaft back into the new column. This way nothing was getting bent. Tighten the bolt and nut back. I couldn't find a torque spec in the shop manual on this. I tightened up to where it was tight.
    15. Now take the column and stab it back in. Make sure to not move any wires and tear something out (you did move them out of the way right before right?).
    16. Once it's placed in start tightening up the clamp on the firewall. Make sure to tighten up enough to keep column up out of the way but do not tighten all the way.
    17. Now once the column is in place but still loose reattach the steering shaft to the gearbox (do not add nuts yet). The bolts are 2 different sizes and nuts only go on their respected size bolts. The alignment pins go onto the large cut out flanges on the shaft. Now go in and make sure the steering wheel is in correct position. If not (upside down) then pull column back off the gear box and insert the key to the ignition to turn the wheel and turn the column to get it in correct position.
    18. Once the wheel is correctly aligned reattach to the steering gear box and tighten up nuts.
    19. Then go back inside the cab and attach the wire connections- 2 at base, top of column for ignition and the wire harness. Now once you have that done loosely tighten up the 4 bolts and bracket that hold the column in place inside the cab to the dash.
    20. Once those are attached go back and tighten up the clamp with the 2 nuts that is against the firewall inside the engine compartment.
    21. Now go back and finish tightening up the 4 bolts again. Make sure to get it up against the dash where when you tighten up the 4 bolts they have no play.
    22. Now go back and reattach the rubber gasket to the firewall/floor. Then place carpet and rubber mats back and make sure the mats are not in the way of the pedals.
    23. Reattach the heater duct and the metal dash cover then lower cover of the steering wheel.
    24. Reconnect the ground on the battery and check to see if all your turn signals, etc. work.
    25. Once you feel that everything is nice and tight take it for a drive and test it out.



    Sours: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/steering_column_removal_installation.htm
    1965 - 1970 60's 70's GMC Chevy C10 steering wheel horn replacement

    Illustrated tilt steering column disassembly

    by Oliver Scholz

    The tilt steering column disassembly seems to be one of the last great mysteries of our time. Nobody likes to do it, but when you do'it's really not all that bad. At least it seems that way to me. Most people don't know how to disassemble it, and the description in the Factory Service Manual is sketchy at best. So I have decided to document the process of tearing into the column, when it was time for me to do so.

    This procedure should be useful if you're trying to do one of these repairs:

    • Turn signal switch
    • Key buzzer switch
    • Ignition lock
    • Ignition lock housing
    • Wiper switch
    • Loose tilt mechanism

    I tried to take as many pictures as possible, but I still may have missed a step here or there. If I did, I apologize, but I still hope you find the pictures informative. Some of the writing has become a bit fuzzy due to the JPEG compression, but GIFs were just too large.

    Some of the things described here can be done without removing the column from the car, however the deeper you have to go, the easier things get with the column out of the car. Plus, it's really simple to remove the column and put it back in. It's so much easier to do everything on a desk instead of crammed under the dash! So, I'd recommend to remove the steering wheel and locking plate while the column is in the car, and then remove the column from the car.

    Start off by disconnecting the negative (-) battery connection. This is important, since you'll be fiddling around with the ignition switch, and you don't want to cause any shorts. Next remove the center cap/horn button (depending on your steering wheel). Remove the horn switch contact by pushing it in and turning it 1/4 turn counterclockwise.

    Remove the clip (if present), center nut (22mm), and pull off the steering wheel. You will need a steering wheel puller for this. You can get it e.g. at Sears. or just about any automotive supplier. Do not attempt to remove the wheel without this tool! Some wheels are loose enough on the shaft to be pulled manually, but don't use any brute force approach!

    Next remove the plastic lock plate cover by unlocking the tabs with a screwdriver.

    Once that's out of the way, you should use a lock plate compressor to push and hold down the lock plate. This allows you to slide the c-clip retainer onto the tool and release the spring pressure (you can see this in the pictures). Remove the lock plate and cancelling cam. Be careful not to lose the spring located in the cancelling cam tower! Remove the Hazard warning switch with a philips screw driver. The switch consists of two parts, plus a spring and a screw. Don't lose them either.

    Remove the lock plate spring from the shaft. Next remove the three screws from the turn signal switch. You must move the turn signal switch in each direction to gain access to all screws. Now remove the philips screw from the turn signal lever. Pull the turn signal stalk from the column with the wiper in the off position.

    This is where I took the column out of the car. Remove the 11mm bolt attaching the column to the U-joint, and remove the two 15mm nuts and the two 15mm bolts holding the column in the car. Carefully lower the column. Disconnect the turn signal connector, the wiper switch connector and the cruise connector, if equipped. Remove the ignition switch connector. This is a two part connector, consisting of a black and a white part, both of which have two locking tabs, so don't force the connectors off. Remove the high beam switch connector (locking tabs!). If you have an automatic transmission, remove the park lock cable by removing the two tiny philips screws from the ignition switch. The column should now be free and you can carefully remove it from the vehicle.

    Put the ignition lock in the RUN position and carefully remove the key warning buzzer switch with a paper clip. Remove the TX20 bolt holding the ignition lock cylinder. Remove the lock cylinder.

    Remove the three TX30 screws attaching the ignition lock housing to the column. When you pull the lock housing off, the high beam actuator may fall out. Getting it back in place can be fun if you're putting things back together. So beware!

    If you're going to remove/replace either the turn signal switch or the wiper switch, remove the four bolts shown in the picture below, and the harness protector. You can fiddle connector and harness through the column even if it doesn't seem like it will fit. It will. When you reassemble, these bolts have to be put back in in the right order, and torqued to spec. Check the Helms manual for the recommended torque values for your vehicle.

    To remove the wiper switch, push the pivot pin out of the housing, and remove the switch.

    Remove the sector and spring by punching the shaft that goes to the lock cylinder through the sector with a screwdriver. The spring is held with a small bolt. Put the bolt back in place so you don't lose it.

    Next you have to remove the tilt mechanism spring retainer. This is the silver cap with the small rectangular hole. Insert a screwdriver, push down and make 1/4 turn counterclockwise to disengage the retainer. Remove the spring and retainer and set aside.

    Next is the trickiest part: removal of the pivot pins. GM has a special tool for this (J21854-01), but you probably don't. Neither did I. So I screwed in a screw and pulled on it with vise grips, wiggling back and forth. Worked great. But be careful not to break off the screw, or you'll have to drill it out.

    Now the hard part is over. Pull on the tilt lever and put the column up as far as you can, then turn it right. You want to remove this part (see picture). This one actuates the rod that goes to the actual ignition switch.

    Just pull the upper part of the tilt housing off. By now you will see a few balls falling from the column. These are part of the lower bearing, don't lose any one of them!

    Now you can see the objects of our desire: the four infamous Torx head bolts. Tighten them well, and a drop of threadlocker may be a good idea. I didn't have a proper size Torx socket, so I used a 6mm Hex socket instead. Worked great.

    Reassembly is basically the reverse of the above. When reassembling, use a torque wrench to torque everything back to specs. You don't want the column to come apart when you're going 65 mph in heavy traffic! About the only tricky part when putting the column back together is the high beam switch actuator. Make sure the actuator is engaging the switch, and hold the column upright. The grease will "stick" the plastic part to the lower column shroud. Install the lock housing from above, and try to keep the plastic part in place. The picture shows what it should look like if you did it right. Install the turn signal stalk now to check if the high beam actuator works.

    Grease is also a great helper to keep the balls inside a ball bearing, just a hint.

    If you have any comments or suggestions (or additions), please feel free to contact me! Oh, and whatever you do, you do it at your own risk. If you find these pictures helpful, great, but if you break something or I made a wrong somewhere, don't blame me for anything, just let me know and I'll correct it.




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